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9chasuble-galloon-file.pdf

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Chasuble --with galloon edge Notes: 1. The pattern is drawn without a seam allowance unless otherwise marked. 2. Cut interfacing first and mark the center lines. 3. Center the face fabric design on the back cross and front panel. 1.Cut: 1 front and back of face material without seam allowance except at shoulder & the top edge of the front piece. 1 front and back of interfacing without seam allowance except at shoulder & the top edge of the front piece 1 front and back of lining material with
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  Chasuble --with galloon edge Notes: 1. The pattern is drawn without a seam allowance unless otherwise marked.2. Cut interfacing first and mark the center lines.3. Center the face fabric design on the back cross and front panel. 1.Cut :1 front and back of face material without seam allowance except at shoulder & the top edge of the front piece.1 front and back of interfacing without seam allowance except at shoulder & the top edge of the front piece1 front and back of lining material with 1/2 seam allowance added2. Pin of face material to the interfacing working from center out. Hand baste down the center line on the front and back. ( For this I find that a 2 to3 doll needle works well.) Then baste all around the outer edges. Try to keep thegrain line and fabric pattern straight.3. Layout the cross on the back chasuble and the front pillar. The inside width of the cross and pillar should be between 5 and 6 1/2 . Be sure to keep the trim absolutely straight. (To do this I use quilters 1/4 masking tapeand a straight edge such as a metal yard stick to lay out the cross. Then lay out the trim along the tape.) Pin & stitchin place.4. Pin and stitch applique in place. Some appliques such as silk or gold embroidery appliques must be couched.(Also, some appliques are better applied before laying out the cross) 5. On the trim to be used on the outside edge of the chasuble sew a long gathering stitch in the sections where itmust round a curve. It will be used to gather the trim around the curve.6. On the right side of the face material pin the trim along the outside edge and the neckline of the chasuble frontand back, pulling the gathering stitches so trim follows the curves of the chasuble.8. Stitch the trim  on the inside edge only  through all thicknesses. 9. Mark the center line of the lining by lightly pressing.10. Lay the chasuble on the table face down and center the lining on the chasuble wrong sides together. Pin liningto chasuble along the center line. Working from the center out pin the lining to the chasuble keeping the grain linesstraight . Place the pins about 1 from the edge.11. Turn the chasuble face up. Turn the seam allowance of the lining in over the face material and interfacing andtuck under the edge of the galloon clipping the seam allowance of the lining along the curves. Stitch along outsideedge of galloon.. ( The face material and interfacing may need trimmed back about 1/16 so that the lining won’tstick out beyond the galloon and will match evenly.)12. With right sides together pin and stitch the front to the back along the shoulder seam through the face materialand interfacing only. ( Don’t stitch thru the lining.) Press the seam toward front. Turn lining seam allowance under and slip stitch in place.13. Hand stitch the grossgrain tape ties to the lining. Ties should be at least 3 yds long--longer if the priest islarge..  Stole --with galloon edge 1 Cut : 2 lining pieces with 1/2 seam allowance added2 face pieces with no seam allowance except at center back 2 interfacing with no seam allowance except at center back 2. Pin and hand baste interfacing to the face material.3. With right sides together, stitch center back seam of stole with ½” seam.4. Pin galloon along the edge of the stole and stitch on the inside edge only . Apply crosses. A cross is requiredat the center back but crosses are optional at the stole ends. 5. Stitch center back seam of lining together. Press open.6. Center lining on stole wrong sides together. Pin lining to stole.7. Clip lining along curves. Turn seam allowance of lining in over the face material and interfacing and tuck under the edge of the galloon. Stitch along the outside edge of the galloon along the stole sides.8. Turn seam allowance of lining on stole ends over the face material and interfacing and baste. Do not bastethrough the galloon. Tuck the fringe under the galloon and pin. Stitch in place through all thicknesses. Maniple with galloon edge  1. Make the maniple in the same manner as the stole steps 1 thru 6. Remember to put the required cross at thecenter seam.7. Cut a 13 piece of 1/4 elastic. Stitch an elastic loop tothe lining at the center seam. Fold the maniple in half and tack stitch about 9 down from the center seam on each edge. Chalice Veil with galloon edge 1.Cut: 1 lining piece 22 x 22 square 1 face piece 21 x 21 square2. Sew cross to the middle front of the face material and trim around edge.3. Center and pin lining, wrong sides together, to face material.4 Turn lining seam allowance under (as in chasuble) and stitch. Press.  Technique for sewing vestments with galloon edge
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