Draft a Custom Fit Pencil Skirt Pattern

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Draft a Custom Fit Pencil Skirt Pattern
  So Sew Easy   Pencil Skirt Sloper   Have you EVER owned a pencil skirt that fit you properly? I find the ready to wear either gape in the waist, or are too tight across the hip or thigh or the darts aren’t right. I guess perhaps my waist to hip ratio does not match the ideal hourglass figure. Neither is my widest point in the regular hip –  I am a true pear with my thighs wider than my hips but with a very square waist to hips too. If your figure doesn’t match the standard ready to wear shape, then you nee d a custom pattern. It’s really not that difficult –   let’s give it a go.   Want to make your own perfectly fitting skirt pattern –  read on!  How to make a pencil skirt sloper   1.   Download the calculator spread sheet here - Pencil Skirt Pattern Sloper Calculations   Spreadsheet. Or copy and paste the direct link into your browser: 2.   Print out these instructions. It will be easier if you have the photos to refer to without having to scroll up and down. 3.   Take measurements at the natural waistline and at the widest part of the body (hips, bottom or thighs if needed). 4.   If you have a tape measure that uses centimeters, I recommend using that for this pattern drafting as it will give a more accurate measurement than using inches. If you cannot use centimeters, then try to be as accurate as possible with your measurements in inches for the best finished result. Do not round to the nearest inch. You will need to use fractions of an inch such as 0.5 for a half or 0.25 for a quarter inch. 5.   Mark on the body where the measurements were taken, or tie around a piece of string or loose elastic and then measure the vertical distance between your measurements from waist to widest part of the body. 6.   Measure how long you want your standard skirt length from waist to hemline.   7.   Enter your measurements in the calculator spread sheet either in inches or centimetres –  not both. 8.   Use large sheets of paper or tape together enough smaller pieces until you make up a piece of paper big enough to draw your pattern. Many sewists like to use Sewable Swedish Tracing Paper or Medical Pattern Paper for pattern making –   it’s strong enough to use again and again and can even be pinned to the body to check for fit. 9.   Make the paper the length of your skirt plus 4 inches, and the width of your widest measurement, divided by two and add back 4 inches. This will give you some working area and allow for you to write down your measurements and calculations. 10.   We will need some ‘ease’ in our skirt if it is not to be skin tight and then split when we sit down and our bottom and thighs expand. So add some ease to your hip measurement - for slimmer bodies allow 1.5cm, for softer bodies allow 2.5cm. 11.   Add your ease into the calculator. 1.5 for slim bodies, 2.5 for curvy. 12.   Length A to B is the length of the skirt from waist to hemline excluding the width of any waistband. 13.   Length A to C is the hip measurement divided by two, plus your ease of 1.5 or 2.5cm. 14.   Now draw a rectangle in the center of your paper which is the length A to B, and width A to C from the calculator. 15.   Now find the center of the line at the top and bottom and draw a vertical line down the center to make two pattern pieces. On the right hand side, make this the skirt front and mark that it is to be cut on the fold. The left hand piece is the skirt back. 16.   Add a hip line D to E across the full width and down from the waistline according to your measurement from waist to hip. Length A to D is the waist down to hip measurement. Check the calculator for your measurements.  17.   Your basic pattern should look like this so far. I’m working in miniature so it is easier to photograph! The basic rectangle of length and hips plus sitting ease. 18.   Our bodies are curved at the waist so we need to curve our pattern. First mark across on each side for a quarter of the waist measurement plus 4.25cm for the two darts on the back, and quarter waist plus 2.25 cm for the one dart on the front. Make these points F and G. The measurements for F and G can be found in the calculator.
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