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Inside The Test Kitchen

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Tyler Florence does updated comfort food like no one else, but comfort food’s never been updated like this. Join him as he perfects, simplifies, and totally re-invents your favorite dishes in surprising, spectacular ways. Have you ever wondered which cheese, exactly, will make the stretchiest, cheesiest mac and cheese? Or if you can make Hollandaise sauce without fear, a double boiler, or even a whisk? Or if, instead of having to choose between onion rings or French fries, you can make onion rings crusted with French fries? Tyler Florence has. These are the kinds of questions he obsesses over when he thinks about how to make cooking both easier and more exciting. For years, while shuttling between his restaurants and TV shoots, Tyler's kept a notebook of ideas to push his own recipes out of their comfort zone. Now, for the first time in his career, he’s established a culinary lab where he can dive deep into the hows, whys, and why-nots of his cooking. He brings you Inside the Test Kitchen to see his experiments, the wins and the fails, and of course, the delicious, foolproof, and surprising recipes that come out of it. Go from tricks to make basics brilliant—like saucing Double-Creamed Spinach with pureed spinach, or using boiling-hot brine to make a Super-Crisp Roast Chicken— to simpler ways to make the classics, like a nearly no-stir Time Saver Risotto and a Three-Minute Hollandaise, to pure reinvention, like Fronion Rings and almost-instant Modern Burger Buns. Through these 120 recipes, Tyler invites you to question culinary sacred cows, push your skills to the next level, and make food more delicious than they would have thought possible.
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  TITLE:RECIPE NO.NOTES / INGREDIENTS / METHOD:SERVES: 28   MODERN BURGER BUNS  This recipe was one of our big Test Kitchen triumphs—we wanted to be able to make a fresh-baked bun, from scratch, in about the same amount of time it takes to make the burgers themselves. It took a lot of testing, but we had faith it would come together. This bun cooks on the griddle, right next to your burger. The bun holds up well to the burger sauce and  juices, which was one of our critical criteria for a great bun. There is no yeast required; instead, we inject carbon dioxide into the batter. Make sure you are using an iSi siphon that makes whipped cream, not a soda siphon. You will need CO 2  chargers, not the NO 2  chargers that come with the iSi gun, which you can get at specialty food stores or hardware stores. It’s better to weigh the ingredients for accurate results, but you can also use cup measures if you don’t have a scale. 9 ounces bread flour (2 cups minus 2 tablespoons)18 ounces potato starch (4 cups) 2 teaspoons dry milk powder4 teaspoons kosher salt2 tablespoons sugar2 teaspoons baking soda4 teaspoons baking powder2 large eggs, lightly beatenGrapeseed or vegetable oil, for griddleSesame seeds Flaky sea saltSpecial equipment: iSi whipped cream siphon, 6 CO 2  chargers, 3 ring molds 3 inches wide and 2 inches tall, nonstick cooking spray Combine the bread flour, potato starch, milk powder, salt, sugar, baking soda, and baking powder in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Fill a large measuring cup with 3 cups of water, add the eggs, whisk together, and pour the wet ingredients into the dry. Whisk to combine. Pour half the batter into the iSi siphon, and charge with 2 carbon dioxide (CO 2 ) cartridges. Give it a gentle shake, and let the batter rest for 10 minutes.Heat a cast-iron griddle over medium-low heat and add a drizzle of grapeseed oil. When it’s hot, lightly spray all of the ring molds with nonstick spray and set on the griddle. Eject the batter from the iSi gun into the ring molds. Cook for 20 minutes on one side, until browned on the bottom and the sides are set, then spray the bun top with nonstick spray and sprinkle with sesame seeds and sea salt. Using a spatula, carefully flip the buns and cook for one more minute, to brown the other sides. 009  BURGERS & MEATLOAF  29 While the buns are cooking, refill the siphon with the rest of the batter, charge with 2 more CO 2  cartridges, gently shake, and let rest for at least 10 minutes. When the buns are done, allow them to cool for a few minutes. Gently run a knife around the edge of the ring molds to loosen and remove the buns. Spray the ring molds and repeat the cooking procedure as above with the second batch of batter. Allow the second batch to cool, and loosen as above. Slice in half and serve with burgers.
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